Aglianico: Italy's Noble Rebel

Right then, darlings, let me introduce you to one of Italy's most criminally underappreciated grapes. While everyone's busy fawning over Nebbiolo and Sangiovese up north, Aglianico has been quietly ruling the sun-baked hills of Campania and Basilicata like an absolute queen. The ancient Romans called wines from this grape "the Falernian" – their most prized vintage, mind you – and they weren't wrong to make such a fuss.

This thick-skinned beauty is renowned for producing wines with ferocious tannins, brilliant acidity, and an aging potential that puts most other Italian reds to shame. Think of her as the Barolo of the South – powerful, structured, and absolutely magnetic when given proper time to mature. She's not the sort of grape that plays nice when young; no, Aglianico demands patience and rewards those willing to wait with something truly spectacular.

What makes Aglianico particularly fascinating is her stubborn refusal to be tamed. Even in the scorching southern Italian heat, she maintains razor-sharp acidity and develops tannins that could strip paint. It's this remarkable balance of power and elegance that's finally earning her the international recognition she deserves.

Aglianico's story reads like a proper historical epic, and I'm absolutely here for it. The grape's name is derived from "Hellenico" – literally meaning "Greek" – and for good reason. The ancient Greeks brought this vine to southern Italy when they colonized the region around the 7th or 8th century BC. Yes, darlings, we're talking about a grape with over 2,500 years of pedigree. Très ancien, non?

The Romans were absolutely mad for Aglianico. Pliny the Elder waxed poetic about Falernian wine, considered the finest in the Roman Empire, which historians now believe was made primarily from Aglianico grapes grown on the volcanic slopes of Mount Falernus (now Monte Massico) in Campania. Imagine – emperors and senators getting properly sloshed on what we now know as Aglianico. Brilliant!

During the Middle Ages, Aglianico cultivation spread throughout southern Italy, particularly thriving in the volcanic soils of Campania's Taurasi region and Basilicata's Vulture zone. The grape became so intertwined with local culture that it survived phylloxera, world wars, and even the mid-20th century exodus from rural southern Italy that decimated many traditional vineyards.

The modern renaissance of Aglianico began in the 1980s and 1990s when forward-thinking producers like Antonio Mastroberardino in Taurasi started applying contemporary winemaking techniques while respecting traditional methods. They proved that Aglianico could compete with the world's greatest red wines, and the international wine community finally started paying attention. About bloody time, if you ask me!

Aglianico is what we oenology types call a "vigorous" grape, which is a polite way of saying she's an absolute handful in the vineyard. She's a late-budding, extremely late-ripening variety – often one of the last grapes harvested in Italy, sometimes not until November. This extended hang time is crucial for developing the complexity and structure that makes Aglianico so special, but it also means growers are constantly gambling with autumn weather.

The grape thrives in volcanic soils, which is rather convenient given her historic strongholds around Mount Vesuvius and Mount Vulture. These ancient volcanic soils – rich in minerals, well-drained, and slightly alkaline – seem to bring out the best in Aglianico, contributing to the wine's distinctive mineral character and aging potential. The vines also adore elevation; many of the finest Aglianico vineyards sit between 400 and 700 meters above sea level, where the altitude moderates the intense southern Italian heat.

Climate-wise, Aglianico needs plenty of sunshine and warmth to fully ripen – we're talking hot Mediterranean summers. However, she also requires significant diurnal temperature variation (that's the difference between day and night temperatures, for those not fluent in wine-speak). Cool nights help preserve the acidity that's essential to Aglianico's character and aging potential.

Viticultural challenges? Oh, where do I start! Aglianico is prone to uneven ripening, requires meticulous canopy management, and produces thick-skinned berries that need extended maceration to extract all those gorgeous tannins and color compounds. She's also susceptible to various vine diseases, particularly in humid conditions. Basically, she's high-maintenance – but then again, aren't the most interesting people always a bit demanding?

Let me paint you a proper sensory picture of Aglianico, because this grape is nothing short of spectacular when done right. On the nose, you'll encounter an intoxicating bouquet of dark cherries, black plums, and blackberries, often accompanied by notes of leather, tobacco, dark chocolate, and dried herbs like oregano and thyme. As the wine ages – and trust me, you want to age this – it develops extraordinary complexity with aromas of tar, truffle, forest floor, and violets.

The palate is where Aglianico really shows her stuff. These wines are characteristically full-bodied with a dense, almost chewy texture from those formidable tannins. But here's the brilliant part – despite the power and concentration, there's always this backbone of bright acidity running through it, lifting all that richness and providing incredible freshness. It's like a tightrope walk between intensity and elegance, and when balanced properly, it's absolutely sublime.

Expect flavors of black cherry, plum, blackberry, and dark fig, often with savory elements like black olive, leather, smoke, and that distinctive volcanic minerality. The tannins are substantial – not for the faint of heart when the wine is young – but they're generally fine-grained and noble, softening beautifully with age. Alcohol levels typically run between 13-14.5%, though some modern styles push higher.

Young Aglianico can be quite austere and tannic, which is why many traditional producers insist on extended aging before release. Give it time, though – we're talking 5-10 years minimum for serious examples, and the best can age gracefully for 20-30 years or more. The transformation is genuinely magical, like watching someone evolve from charming rebel to sophisticated connoisseur.

Taurasi DOCG, Campania

This is the undisputed king of Aglianico country, darlings. Located in the hills east of Naples, Taurasi produces the most powerful, structured, and age-worthy expressions of the grape. The volcanic and calcareous soils, combined with elevation and a continental climate, create wines of extraordinary depth and complexity. Taurasi DOCG wines must be aged for at least three years (four for Riserva), with at least one year in barrel. These are serious, brooding wines that demand patience – but oh, the rewards! Think of Taurasi as the Barolo of the South.

Aglianico del Vulture DOC/Superiore DOCG, Basilicata

Mount Vulture's volcanic slopes in Basilicata produce Aglianico with a slightly different character than Taurasi – often more aromatic and elegant, with pronounced minerality. The vineyards here can reach up to 800 meters elevation, resulting in wines with brilliant acidity and remarkable freshness despite the southern heat. The Superiore DOCG designation requires three years of aging (five for Riserva), and these wines can be absolutely stunning – slightly more approachable young than Taurasi, but still built for the long haul.

Irpinia DOC, Campania

A broader appellation in Campania's Avellino province that encompasses Taurasi and produces both pure Aglianico and blends. These wines are often more accessible and fruit-forward than Taurasi, with less stringent aging requirements. They're brilliant for exploring Aglianico's character without mortgaging your house or waiting a decade to drink them.

Taburno DOCG, Campania

A newer DOCG (granted in 2011) in the Taburno massif north of Avellino. The wines here show lovely balance between power and elegance, with the volcanic terroir contributing distinctive mineral notes. Less well-known than Taurasi but producing increasingly impressive wines worth seeking out.

Sannio DOC, Campania

Located in Benevento province, this area produces more approachable, everyday styles of Aglianico alongside the more serious offerings. Perfect for those wanting to dip their toes into Aglianico waters without diving into the deep end of Taurasi.

Cilento DOC, Campania

Further south along the Campanian coast, Cilento produces a warmer, slightly riper style of Aglianico with softer tannins and more immediate appeal. The coastal Mediterranean influence adds lovely savory, herbal notes to the wines.

California & Australia (Emerging Regions)

A handful of adventurous New World producers have started experimenting with Aglianico, particularly in California's Central Coast and parts of Australia. While these wines don't yet match the complexity of Italian examples, they're producing some interesting, fruit-forward interpretations that show the grape's international potential. Watch this space!

The winemaking approach to Aglianico has evolved considerably over the past few decades, creating a fascinating tension between traditionalists and modernists – very Italian drama, très amusant!

Traditional Old-World Approach

Traditional producers favor extended maceration (30-40 days or even longer) to extract maximum tannin and color from those thick skins. Fermentation typically occurs in temperature-controlled stainless steel or neutral cement tanks, followed by aging in large, neutral Slavonian oak botti (big barrels). This approach produces austere, tannic wines that absolutely require extended bottle aging – we're talking 10-15 years minimum – but develop extraordinary complexity and elegance with time.

Modern International Style

More contemporary producers have adopted shorter macerations (15-25 days), temperature-controlled fermentations, and aging in smaller French oak barriques. This approach creates more approachable wines with softer tannins and earlier drinkability, often with more pronounced oak influence (vanilla, toast, sweet spice). Some critics argue this masks Aglianico's true character, while others appreciate the more immediate pleasure these wines provide.

The Middle Ground

Many of the most exciting producers today are finding a brilliant middle path – using moderate maceration times, a combination of large neutral oak and some smaller barrels, and careful extraction techniques that preserve Aglianico's essential character while producing wines that are both age-worthy and enjoyable with "only" 5-7 years of aging. This is where the magic happens, in my opinion.

Regardless of style, malolactic fermentation is standard practice to soften the naturally high acidity, and most quality producers employ some form of cold soaking before fermentation to extract color and aromatics without extracting harsh tannins.

Aglianico's bold structure and bright acidity make it absolutely brilliant with rich, savory dishes. This isn't a wine for delicate cuisine, darlings – think hearty, robust flavors that can stand up to those formidable tannins.

Slow-Braised Lamb Ragù with Pappardelle

This is the pairing that makes angels weep. The lamb's richness and fat content soften Aglianico's tannins, while the wine's acidity cuts through beautifully. The tomato-based sauce echoes the wine's savory notes, and those herbs (rosemary, thyme) create magical harmony. The pasta provides textural contrast and helps balance the wine's intensity. Perfection on a plate.

Grilled Bistecca Fiorentina or T-Bone Steak

Aglianico loves a proper char-grilled steak, especially one with a good fat cap. The Maillard reaction creates flavors that complement the wine's smoky, earthy notes, while the protein and fat tame those tannins. Keep the seasoning simple – just good olive oil, salt, and pepper – and let the wine and meat shine. Add some grilled porcini mushrooms if you're feeling fancy.

Aged Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano

Hard, aged cheeses with their crystalline, umami-rich character are spectacular with mature Aglianico. The cheese's saltiness and savory depth complement the wine's evolved, complex flavors (those tertiary notes of leather, truffle, and earth), while the fat content softens any remaining tannins. Try this pairing with an aged Taurasi and prepare to have your mind blown.

Wild Boar or Venison Stew

Game meats are traditional partners for Aglianico in southern Italy, and it's easy to understand why. The meat's strong, slightly gamey flavors aren't overwhelmed by the wine's intensity, while the long, slow cooking creates rich, concentrated flavors that match the wine's depth. The earthy, forest-floor notes in aged Aglianico particularly shine with game.

Eggplant Parmigiana (Melanzane alla Parmigiana)

For a vegetarian option, this classic southern Italian dish is spot-on. The eggplant's meaty texture, the rich tomato sauce, the melted cheese – it all works beautifully with Aglianico's structure and acidity. The slight bitterness of the eggplant even complements the wine's tannic grip. Plus, it's traditional Campanian cuisine, so you're honoring the wine's heritage. Brava!

Entry Level ($15-25)

Cantine del Notaio "Il Repertorio" Aglianico del Vulture – A brilliant introduction to Aglianico from Basilicata that's approachable young but still shows the grape's character. Vibrant dark fruit, good structure, and won't require a second mortgage. Perfect for weeknight indulgence.

Mid-Range ($30-50)

Feudi di San Gregorio "Rubrato" Irpinia Aglianico – From one of Campania's most quality-focused producers, this shows Aglianico's power with a touch more polish and accessibility. Rich, concentrated, with beautiful balance between fruit and structure. Drink now or age for 5-10 years.

D'Angelo Aglianico del Vulture – A classic Basilicata producer making traditional-style Aglianico with remarkable consistency. These wines show gorgeous volcanic minerality and have proven aging potential. Excellent value for the quality level.

Premium ($60-100)

Mastroberardino Taurasi Riserva "Radici" – From the producer who almost single-handedly preserved Aglianico in the mid-20th century, this is benchmark Taurasi. Old vines, volcanic soil, extended aging – everything you want in serious Aglianico. Age for at least 10 years if you can bear to wait.

Elena Fucci "Titolo" Aglianico del Vulture – From one of Italy's most exciting young winemakers, this shows a more refined, elegant side of Aglianico. Beautifully perfumed with silky tannins that belie the variety's usual brawn. Absolutely smashing.

Splurge-Worthy ($100+)

Salvatore Molettieri Taurasi Riserva "Vigna Cinque Querce" – Absolutely stunning wine from a small, quality-obsessed producer. This is Aglianico at its most profound – dense, complex, powerful yet elegant. These wines can age gracefully for 20-30 years. Worth every penny for a special occasion.

The Name Game: Some etymologists argue that "Aglianico" might actually derive from "Apulianicum" (meaning "from Apulia") rather than "Hellenico," suggesting the grape spread from Puglia to Campania and Basilicata. The debate continues, but the Greek origin story remains more widely accepted. Either way, she's properly ancient.

Volcanic Love Affair: Aglianico is one of the very few grape varieties that seems to actively prefer volcanic soils, showing distinctive mineral characteristics that aren't present when grown in other terroirs. Mount Vesuvius and Mount Vulture aren't just scenic backdrops – they're essential to Aglianico's identity.

The Barolo Comparison: Wine critics often call Aglianico "the Nebbiolo of the South" due to both grapes' high tannins, high acidity, and remarkable aging potential. However, Aglianico typically shows more power and less ethereal aromatics than Nebbiolo – think of her as Barolo's more robust, sun-kissed cousin.

Climate Change Winner: While many classic wine regions are struggling with warming temperatures, Aglianico's late ripening and natural high acidity mean it's relatively well-positioned to handle climate change. Some wine scientists predict Aglianico will become increasingly important as global temperatures rise. Clever girl!

Presidential Approval: When President Barack Obama visited Italy in 2009, he was served Aglianico at an official state dinner. The wine? Mastroberardino Taurasi Riserva. Not bad company for our southern Italian rebel!

The Patience Test: Traditional Taurasi producers used to say you should open a bottle when your newborn child gets married. While that's perhaps a bit extreme (and assumes rather early marriages!), it does illustrate just how seriously age-worthy these wines can be. A well-stored Taurasi from an excellent vintage can genuinely improve for 30+ years.

DNA Mysteries: Genetic research has shown that Aglianico is not closely related to any other major Italian variety, despite centuries of viticulture in Italy. It's a genetic island, which partly explains its unique character and why it's so bloody difficult to grow anywhere else.

So there you have it, darlings – Aglianico in all her tannic, age-worthy, volcanic glory. She's not the easiest grape to love at first sip, but like the best relationships, she rewards those willing to invest time and patience. Give her the respect she deserves, pair her with something properly robust, and prepare to understand why the Romans were so utterly obsessed.

Now off you pop to find yourself a bottle – preferably one with a few years on it already. Your taste buds will thank you.

Salute, my lovelies!

– Sophie, The Wine Insider