Orange Wine: The Ancient Hipster of the Wine World
Not a citrus fruit in sight, darlings—just 8,000 years of winemaking wizardry
Before we dive in, let's clear up the most common confusion: orange wine is NOT made from oranges. It's not a wine spritzer with orange juice, it's not Fanta for adults, and it's certainly not some trendy cocktail. Orange wine is actually white wine made like red wine—white grapes with extended skin contact that produces a glorious amber hue. Think of it as white wine's wild, rebellious sibling who backpacked through Georgia and came back absolutely transformed.
The Flavor Profile: Complex, Controversial, Completely Captivating
Right, let's talk about what you're actually getting in the glass, shall we? Orange wine is not for the faint of heart or those who prefer their wines polite and predictable. This is wine with personality—the kind of date who orders adventurous food and has strong opinions about natural fermentation.
Typical Tasting Notes:
- Dried apricot and orange peel (now you see where the name comes from!)
- Bruised apple and jackfruit
- Honey, beeswax, and raw almonds
- Sourdough bread and hay
- Green tea and chamomile
- A distinct phenolic grip (that grippy, tannic sensation you'd expect from red wine)
- Funky, oxidative notes (like a well-aged cider or kombucha—très trendy)
The texture is what really sets orange wine apart from its conventional white wine cousins. Thanks to all that extended skin contact, you get tannins—those mouth-drying compounds typically found in red wines and over-steeped tea. Combined with often lower acidity due to oxidative winemaking, orange wine has a full, almost chewy body that demands your attention. It's not background music; it's a full orchestral performance.
Ancient Origins: Georgia's 8,000-Year Head Start
Here's where it gets properly fascinating, my dears. While we're all treating orange wine like it's the latest natural wine trend discovered by a Brooklyn sommelier with impressive facial hair, the Georgians have been making this stuff since approximately 6,000 BC. Yes, that's eight thousand years ago—before the wheel, before writing, before anyone had the good sense to invent corkage fees.
The traditional Georgian method uses qvevri (pronounced "keh-vree")—massive egg-shaped clay vessels that are buried underground up to their necks. The whole grape bunches—skins, seeds, stems, and all—are tossed in together and left to ferment for anywhere from several months to an entire year. The underground temperature stays brilliantly constant, and the egg shape creates natural convection currents that keep the wine moving without any intervention. It's essentially the world's first hands-off, minimal-intervention winemaking, and it's absolutely genius.
This UNESCO-protected Georgian tradition continued uninterrupted for millennia while the rest of the wine world was busy perfecting other techniques. Then in the 1990s, a handful of forward-thinking Italian winemakers in Friuli—particularly the legendary Joško Gravner and Stanko Radikon—travelled to Georgia, had their minds completely blown, and brought the techniques back home. What was old became new again, and the modern orange wine movement was born.
The Production Method: White Grapes, Red Wine Technique
Now let's get into the nitty-gritty of how orange wine is actually made, because understanding the process really helps you appreciate what's in the glass.
Traditional white wine production: You press white grapes immediately after harvest, separating the juice from the skins, seeds, and stems. The clear juice ferments on its own, producing a wine that's typically fresh, fruity, and light in color.
Orange wine production: You crush white grapes and leave everything together—juice, skins, seeds, sometimes even stems—for an extended maceration period. This can range from a few days to several months (or even a year in those Georgian qvevri). During this time, the juice extracts color, tannins, and flavor compounds from the skins, just like red wine production.
Why the Terminology Gets Confusing:
You'll hear orange wine called by several names, and they're all essentially referring to the same thing:
- Orange wine - The popular, catchy term
- Amber wine - More accurate to the actual color
- Skin-contact wine - The technical, unsexy term
- Ramato - Italian term, particularly for Pinot Grigio made this way
The extended skin contact is what gives orange wine its distinctive amber-to-deep-orange color (hence the name), plus all those tannins and complex flavors. Many producers also use wild, native yeasts rather than commercial strains, ferment in neutral vessels like concrete, clay, or old oak, and avoid filtration or fining. The result? Wine with texture, complexity, and a certain funky unpredictability that natural wine lovers absolutely adore.
The Grape Varieties: From Georgia to Friuli
Technically, you can make orange wine from any white grape variety, but some varieties absolutely shine with this treatment. Here are the absolute superstars:
Rkatsiteli
The Georgian workhorse grape. Makes absolutely brilliant orange wine with honeyed, nutty, oxidative notes and stunning longevity.
Ribolla Gialla
The Italian favorite from Friuli. Naturally high in phenolics, making it perfect for extended maceration. Citrus peel and almond notes galore.
Pinot Grigio/Gris
The glow-up story of the century. When made as orange wine (ramato), Pinot Grigio transforms from boring to absolutely fascinating with copper hues and spicy complexity.
Friulano
Another Italian gem. Develops gorgeous bitter almond and dried herb characteristics with skin contact.
Kisi & Mtsvane
Traditional Georgian varieties that have been making orange wine since the dawn of civilization. Expect exotic dried fruit and floral notes.
Sauvignon Blanc
The wildcard! When treated to extended skin contact, it loses those aggressive tropical notes and gains fascinating savory, herbal complexity.
Notable Regions: Where to Find the Good Stuff
While Georgia is the spiritual homeland, brilliant orange wines are now being made worldwide. Here's where to focus your attention:
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
The region that sparked the modern orange wine revolution. Producers like Gravner, Radikon, and La Castellada are absolute legends. The wines tend to be structured, profound, and age-worthy—think more intellectual than immediately charming.
Brda, Slovenia
Just across the border from Friuli, the Slovenians have their own vibrant orange wine scene. Slightly more approachable than their Italian neighbors, with gorgeous fruit purity alongside the skin-contact character.
Kakheti, Georgia
The OG orange wine region. Qvevri wines from producers like Pheasant's Tears, Iago's Wine, and Niki Antadze offer a direct line to ancient winemaking traditions. These wines can be powerfully oxidative and funky—absolutely brilliant with Georgian cuisine.
Austria
Austrian winemakers have embraced orange wine with typical precision. Look for Meinklang, Claus Preisinger, and Gut Oggau for beautifully balanced examples that maintain freshness alongside skin-contact character.
California, USA
The natural wine movement in California has produced some cracking orange wines. Scholium Project, Donkey & Goat, and Martha Stoumen are making exciting, experimental skin-contact wines that push boundaries.
The Natural Wine Connection: Philosophy Meets Technique
Orange wine and natural wine are not synonyms, but they're definitely dating. Most orange wine producers embrace a low-intervention, natural winemaking philosophy that aligns perfectly with extended skin-contact techniques.
This means wild fermentations (using ambient yeasts from the vineyard rather than commercial strains), minimal or no sulfur additions, no fining or filtration, and a general hands-off approach that lets the wine express itself authentically. The result can be unpredictable—bottle variation is common, and some wines develop funky, cider-like qualities that you either adore or absolutely loathe.
The traditional Georgian method is inherently natural—those qvevri have been buried in cellars for thousands of years without temperature control, cultured yeasts, or any modern interventions. It's winemaking in its purest, most elemental form, and it produces wines that taste like absolutely nothing else on earth.
Food Pairing: Where Orange Wine Absolutely Shines
This is where orange wine proves it's not just a trendy curiosity—it's genuinely one of the most food-friendly wine styles you can find. Those tannins and oxidative notes make it incredibly versatile at the table.
Brilliant Pairing #1: Georgian Cuisine
Well, obviously! Khachapuri (cheese bread), khinkali (dumplings), and pkhali (walnut-based vegetable dishes) are absolutely made for orange wine. The richness of Georgian food needs the tannin and texture that only skin-contact wine can provide. It's a pairing that's been perfected over eight millennia—I'd say they've got it sorted.
Brilliant Pairing #2: Middle Eastern & North African Cuisine
Think Moroccan tagines, Lebanese mezze, Israeli shakshuka, Turkish köfte—the robust spices, dried fruits, nuts, and olive oil-based dishes are absolutely spectacular with orange wine. The tannins can handle the richness while the oxidative notes complement the warm spice profiles beautifully. Za'atar-roasted vegetables? Magnifique.
Brilliant Pairing #3: Fermented & Funky Foods
Orange wine's funky, oxidative character makes it a natural match for fermented foods. Kimchi, sauerkraut, miso-based dishes, aged cheeses (think washed-rind beauties or nutty alpine styles), and charcuterie all work brilliantly. The shared fermentation funk creates a beautiful harmony on the palate.
Other smashing pairings: Root vegetable dishes, mushroom risotto, roasted poultry, pork belly, oily fish like mackerel or sardines, and pretty much anything involving tahini or nuts. The key is matching the wine's weight and intensity—don't pair it with delicate seafood or light salads; give it something with backbone.
Producers to Try: Your Orange Wine Shopping List
Right, enough theory—let's talk about actual bottles you should be hunting down. Here are producers making absolutely brilliant orange wines across different styles and price points:
🍷 Radikon (Friuli, Italy) - $50-$80
The late Stanko Radikon was a pioneer of the modern orange wine movement. His Ribolla Gialla sees 3-4 months of skin contact and ages in large Slavonian oak. These wines are profound, age-worthy, and absolutely iconic. If you want to understand why orange wine matters, start here.
🍷 Pheasant's Tears (Kakheti, Georgia) - $25-$40
American winemaker John Wurdeman brought Georgian winemaking to international attention with these stunning qvevri wines. The Rkatsiteli and Kisi bottlings offer authentic Georgian tradition with beautiful clarity and drinkability. A gateway to the ancient world.
🍷 Gravner (Friuli, Italy) - $80-$150
Joško Gravner's pilgrimage to Georgia changed everything. His Ribolla Gialla spends six months in qvevri followed by years in large oak barrels. These are monumental, meditative wines that demand your full attention. Expensive, yes, but utterly transformative.
🍷 Gut Oggau (Burgenland, Austria) - $30-$50
Each wine is labeled as a member of a fictional family, which is delightfully bonkers. "Theodora" (their orange wine) is vibrant, fresh, and more immediately approachable than the brooding Italian examples. Brilliant introduction to the style.
🍷 Donkey & Goat (California, USA) - $30-$45
Berkeley-based producers making terrific skin-contact wines from California fruit. Their Stone Crusher Roussanne is gorgeously textured with apricot and chamomile notes. Proof that brilliant orange wine isn't limited to Europe.
Serving Temperature: Not Too Cold, Darlings
Here's a crucial tip that will massively improve your orange wine experience: serve it warmer than you would conventional white wine. We're talking 12-14°C (54-57°F)—basically light red wine temperature, or "cellar cool."
Why? Those tannins and complex aromatics need a bit of warmth to express themselves properly. Serve orange wine ice-cold like you would Pinot Grigio and you'll mute all those gorgeous nutty, oxidative notes. Let it warm up a bit, and suddenly everything clicks into place. If it comes out of the fridge, give it 20-30 minutes to come up to temperature.
Fun Facts & Trivia: Impress Your Mates
- 🏺 The qvevri winemaking method of Georgia is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage—officially recognized as a cultural treasure worth protecting. How many wine styles can claim that?
- 🍊 Despite the name, orange wine can range from pale amber to deep copper—the exact color depends on grape variety, skin contact duration, and oxidation levels. "Amber wine" is technically more accurate but far less catchy.
- 📅 Some Georgian qvevri wines are aged for up to six months with the grape skins, seeds, and stems still in contact—imagine the tannin extraction! This produces wines with enormous aging potential, sometimes decades.
- 🍷 The term "ramato" (meaning "copper-colored") predates "orange wine" by centuries and specifically refers to Pinot Grigio made with skin contact in Friuli. It's the original orange wine, just with a different name.
- 🌍 Georgia has over 500 indigenous grape varieties, many of which have been used for qvevri winemaking for millennia. You could spend a lifetime exploring Georgian orange wines and never taste them all.
- 💰 Some of the world's most expensive white wines are orange wines—Gravner's Ribolla and Radikon's Oslavje regularly fetch $100+ per bottle at auction.
- 🔬 Extended skin contact extracts powerful antioxidants called polyphenols, giving orange wine significantly higher levels than conventional white wine. So technically, it's basically a health tonic. (That's my story and I'm sticking to it.)
The Love-It-or-Hate-It Factor: Where Do You Stand?
Let's be honest: orange wine is divisive. Some people take one sip and have a genuine revelation—suddenly wine becomes more interesting, more complex, more alive. Others taste it and think someone's served them cider that's gone off. Both reactions are completely valid!
Orange wine challenges our expectations of what white wine should taste like. If you expect crisp, fruity, refreshing Sauvignon Blanc and get a tannic, oxidative, funky Ribolla Gialla instead, your brain might reject it entirely. But if you approach it with an open mind, ready to experience something genuinely different, orange wine can be absolutely transformative.
My advice? Start with something relatively approachable—perhaps an Austrian orange wine or a California skin-contact Chenin Blanc—rather than diving straight into a year-long qvevri fermentation. Build up to the funky, oxidative, challenging stuff once you've got your bearings. And always, always serve it with food—orange wine is a team player that shines at the table.
The Verdict: Ancient Tradition Meets Modern Curiosity
Orange wine represents something genuinely special in the wine world: a style that's simultaneously ancient and cutting-edge, traditional and rebellious, carefully crafted and wildly unpredictable. It's a direct link to how wine was made for thousands of years before modern technology intervened, yet it feels utterly contemporary in the natural wine bars of Brooklyn and London.
Whether you're a natural wine devotee, a curious wine geek looking to expand your horizons, or someone who just wants something interesting to pair with that Georgian feast you're planning, orange wine deserves your attention. It might not become your everyday drinking wine (though for some people it absolutely does), but it will certainly expand your understanding of what wine can be.
So grab a bottle, let it warm up to proper temperature, pair it with something robustly flavored, and prepare to have your preconceptions thoroughly challenged. Wine made like they did 8,000 years ago? In 2025, that's positively revolutionary.
Right then, get yourself to the natural wine shop and embrace the funk!
Santé, my adventurous darlings! 🍊🍷
Sophie, The Wine Insider
Oenology-trained in France, cheeky by nature