Penfolds: Australia's Vinous Crown Jewel

Where Grange Hermitage Proved the Aussies Could Out-Rhône the Rhône

Right then, darlings, let's talk about the estate that made the Old World sit up, take notice, and perhaps have a wee bit of an existential crisis. Penfolds isn't just Australia's most celebrated winemaker—it's the producer that fundamentally changed what the global wine community thought Australian wine could be. Before Max Schubert created Grange in the 1950s, Australian wine was largely dismissed by European critics as enthusiastic but unsophisticated. After Grange? Well, the Aussies had rather brilliantly shown everyone that New World winemaking could achieve the same complexity, ageability, and sheer magnificence as anything from Bordeaux or Burgundy.

Founded in 1844 by Dr. Christopher Rawson Penfold, a physician who believed in the medicinal properties of wine (my kind of doctor, honestly), Penfolds has grown from a small Adelaide vineyard into one of the world's most prestigious wine brands. But it's Grange—originally called Grange Hermitage until the French got a bit tetchy about the name—that transformed Penfolds from a respected local producer into an international icon. Today, Grange is Australia's most collectible wine, regularly fetching $700-$1,000 USD per bottle and commanding even more for legendary vintages. Absolument extraordinaire.

The History: From Medicinal Tonics to Vinous Excellence

Dr. Christopher and Mary Penfold arrived in South Australia from England in 1844, bringing with them vine cuttings from the south of France. The good doctor established his vineyard at Magill Estate, just outside Adelaide, initially producing fortified wines that he prescribed as "tonics" to his patients. One can only imagine the popularity of his medical practice—"Take two glasses of fortified wine and call me in the morning" sounds rather more appealing than most prescriptions, doesn't it?

By the 1880s, Penfolds had grown substantially under the management of the family's next generation, and the winery began producing table wines alongside its fortified offerings. The estate survived phylloxera, economic depressions, and two world wars, but it wasn't until the mid-20th century that Penfolds would create the wine that would define not just the estate, but Australian fine wine itself.

"Penfolds transformed from a physician's medicinal wine project into Australia's most prestigious wine estate, proving that colonial ambition combined with viticultural excellence could rival—and occasionally surpass—the Old World masters."

Grange: The Wine That Changed Everything

In 1950, a young winemaker named Max Schubert traveled to Europe on a study tour, visiting the great estates of Bordeaux and spending time in Spain learning about sherry production. What Schubert witnessed in Bordeaux—particularly the long-lived, complex wines of the Médoc—sparked an audacious idea: why couldn't Australia produce wines of similar quality and longevity using Shiraz instead of Cabernet Sauvignon?

Upon returning to Australia, Schubert set about creating an entirely new style of Australian wine. The first experimental vintage of Grange was produced in 1951, using Shiraz grapes from various South Australian vineyards and aging the wine in new American oak barrels—a radical departure from the old Australian oak and larger casks typically used at the time. The wine was powerful, concentrated, and built for serious aging. It was also, initially, rather unpopular.

Here's where the story gets properly brilliant: Penfolds management, utterly baffled by this strange, tannic, expensive wine that nobody seemed to want, ordered Schubert to stop making it in 1957. Did he listen? Did he buggery. Schubert continued making Grange in secret, hiding barrels away and producing tiny quantities until 1960, when early vintages had matured enough to prove his vision correct. Those early Grange vintages, once derided as "crushed ants" and "dry port," were suddenly recognized as extraordinary wines of tremendous complexity and aging potential.

Management reversed their decision, Schubert was vindicated, and Grange went on to become one of the world's most celebrated wines. The 1955 Grange (one of those "secret" vintages) was named a First Growth equivalent by Wine Spectator in 2004, and subsequent vintages have consistently scored 95+ points from international critics. Max Schubert's stubborn refusal to abandon his vision gave Australia—and the entire New World—a wine that could stand proudly alongside Château Latour or Château Margaux. Quelle histoire!

The Multi-Vineyard Blending Philosophy

What makes Grange particularly fascinating is Penfolds' multi-vineyard, multi-district blending approach—a philosophy that flies in the face of European terroir-focused winemaking. Rather than celebrating a single vineyard site, Grange is blended from the very best parcels of Shiraz (and sometimes a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon) sourced from various premium vineyards across South Australia, including Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, and Adelaide Hills.

This approach allows Penfolds' winemaking team to craft a wine of supreme consistency and quality year after year, selecting only the most exceptional fruit regardless of its origin. It's the Australian answer to Champagne's blending philosophy—creating a house style that transcends vintage variation through masterful selection and blending. Some vintages are 100% Shiraz; others might include up to 15% Cabernet Sauvignon if it improves the final blend. The winemaker's skill lies in knowing exactly which parcels to include and in what proportions.

The result? A wine of extraordinary power, concentration, and complexity. Grange typically shows intense dark fruit (blackberry, plum, black cherry), exotic spices, mocha, dark chocolate, and a signature note of dried herbs and eucalyptus. The texture is voluptuous and rich, with velvety tannins and remarkable length. It's built to age for decades—30, 40, even 50+ years for the best vintages. Drinking young Grange is like meeting someone who hasn't yet grown into their potential; give it 10-15 years minimum, and you'll witness something truly special.

The Bin Series: Penfolds' Exceptional Portfolio

While Grange sits at the pinnacle of Penfolds' portfolio, the estate produces an entire range of exceptional wines under the "Bin" numbering system—a reference to the original storage locations of these wines in the Magill cellars. Each Bin number represents a distinct wine style, and many have become icons in their own right.

Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon ($150-$250 USD): Australia's answer to great Napa Cabernet, this is powerful, concentrated, and built for aging. Multi-regional blending creates a wine of remarkable consistency and depth.
Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz ($60-$90 USD): Known as "Baby Grange" or "Poor Man's Grange," this iconic blend shares DNA with its famous sibling—the Cabernet Sauvignon component is matured in the same barrels that previously held Grange. Brilliant value.
Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon ($50-$80 USD): A more approachable expression of Australian Cabernet, showing classic cassis, cedar, and tobacco notes with refined tannins.
Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz ($40-$60 USD): Sourced from the legendary Kalimna vineyard in Barossa Valley, this is quintessential Barossa Shiraz—ripe, powerful, and spicy.
Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz ($40-$60 USD): A cooler-climate expression showing more elegance, savory notes, and refined structure compared to Barossa wines.
RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz ($120-$180 USD): "Red Winemaking Trial" uses French oak instead of American, creating a more elegant, European-styled Shiraz that's absolutely smashing.

The range demonstrates Penfolds' mastery across price points and styles. Whether you're investing in Grange or exploring Bin 28, you're getting wines crafted with the same meticulous attention to quality and consistency. That's rather special, isn't it?

Australian Shiraz Style: Power Meets Elegance

Penfolds' Shiraz-based wines exemplify the Australian style—ripe, powerful, generously fruited, and thoroughly modern. Unlike the more restrained, savory Syrah of the Northern Rhône, Australian Shiraz embraces bold fruit, higher alcohol (typically 14-15% ABV), and the influence of new oak. The climate in South Australia provides abundant sunshine and warmth, allowing grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness and develop those characteristic notes of black fruit, chocolate, and sweet spice.

American oak—particularly the new barrels used for Grange—contributes vanilla, coconut, and sweet spice notes that complement the ripe fruit beautifully. It's a controversial choice among some traditionalists (the French tend to prefer their own oak, naturellement), but it's become a signature of the Penfolds style. That said, wines like RWT prove that Penfolds can also work brilliantly with French oak when the wine calls for it.

What's particularly impressive is how Penfolds manages to create wines of such power and concentration while maintaining balance and elegance. Lesser producers can make Shiraz that's jammy, overextracted, and fatiguing to drink. Penfolds' wines, even the biggest examples, show finesse, integrated oak, and remarkable length. They're hedonistic without being vulgar, powerful without being overwhelming. It's winemaking at the highest level.

Aging Potential and Legendary Vintages

One of Grange's most remarkable characteristics is its extraordinary aging potential. While many modern wines are designed for early consumption, Grange demands—and rewards—patience. The wine's structure, concentration, and acidity ensure it can evolve gracefully for decades, developing tertiary notes of leather, tobacco, dried flowers, and game while retaining its core of dark fruit.

Certain vintages have achieved legendary status among collectors. The 1955 Grange, one of Max Schubert's secret vintages, is considered one of Australia's greatest wines ever made—bottles occasionally appear at auction for $50,000+ USD. The 1971 Grange is another benchmark, showing extraordinary longevity and complexity. More recent legendary vintages include 1986, 1990, 1996, 2004, 2008, and 2010—all rated 98-100 points and aging beautifully.

Penfolds even offers a rather brilliant "Re-Corking Clinic" service, where owners of older Grange (and other premium Penfolds wines) can bring their bottles to be assessed, topped up if necessary, and re-sealed with fresh corks. It's a testament to the estate's commitment to their wines' longevity and their collectors' investments. Très classe.

"Grange doesn't just age gracefully—it evolves into something entirely more complex and profound with time. Drinking a 20-year-old Grange is witnessing Australian Shiraz at its absolute zenith."

Food Pairing: Embracing Australian Cuisine

Penfolds' powerful, fruit-forward Shiraz demands bold, flavorful food that can stand up to the wine's intensity. Fortunately, Australian cuisine—with its emphasis on grilled meats, robust flavors, and multicultural influences—provides perfect matches.

Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary

The classic pairing for Australian Shiraz, and for good reason. Lamb's rich, slightly gamey flavor complements the wine's dark fruit and spice notes beautifully, while the charred crust from grilling echoes the toasted oak influence. Add fresh rosemary, garlic, and a touch of mint sauce, and you've got a match made in heaven. Grange with perfectly cooked lamb is one of life's great pleasures—the wine's tannins cut through the fat while its fruit amplifies the meat's savory depth. Absolutely smashing with Bin 389 or RWT as well.

Slow-Braised Beef Short Ribs

Rich, falling-off-the-bone tender beef short ribs braised in red wine with root vegetables create an opulent pairing for Grange or Bin 707. The wine's power and concentration match the meat's intensity, while its acidity cuts through the richness of the braising liquid. The chocolate and mocha notes in the wine echo the caramelized edges of the meat, and the whole experience is utterly decadent. This is Sunday lunch territory when you're feeling particularly extravagant.

Kangaroo Fillet with Native Pepper Berry Sauce

For a properly Australian experience, try kangaroo fillet—lean, flavorful game meat that's lower in fat than beef but equally satisfying. Kangaroo's slightly gamey, iron-rich flavor stands up brilliantly to Penfolds Shiraz, particularly when served with a reduction sauce featuring native Australian pepper berries (Tasmannia lanceolata), which add a unique spicy, peppery note that complements the wine's own spice character. It's exotic, delicious, and a perfect showcase for both Australian wine and cuisine. Serve with roasted root vegetables and you've got a meal that celebrates the best of Oz.

BBQ Brisket with Smoky Glaze

Australian barbecue culture is legendary, and Penfolds Shiraz is the perfect accompaniment to slow-smoked beef brisket with a sweet and smoky glaze. The wine's ripe fruit handles the sweetness of the glaze, while its structure cuts through the meat's fatty richness. The smoky, charred notes from the barbecue echo the toasted oak in the wine, creating a harmonious flavor bridge. This works brilliantly with the more accessible Bin wines (28, 407, or 389) and turns a casual backyard BBQ into something rather special.

Why Penfolds Matters

Penfolds' importance extends far beyond producing exceptional wines. The estate fundamentally changed the global perception of Australian wine, proving that New World producers could create wines of extraordinary quality, complexity, and longevity. Max Schubert's vision and stubbornness in creating Grange paved the way for generations of Australian winemakers to pursue excellence without apology.

The multi-vineyard blending philosophy pioneered by Penfolds has influenced producers worldwide, demonstrating that thoughtful selection and blending can create wines that transcend single-site limitations. While terroir-focused winemaking certainly has its place (and I adore a great Burgundy or Barolo as much as anyone), Penfolds proved there's more than one path to vinous greatness.

Today, Penfolds remains at the forefront of Australian fine wine, continuing to innovate while respecting tradition. The estate's commitment to quality at every level—from entry-level Bin wines to the iconic Grange—ensures that whether you're spending $40 or $1,000, you're getting a wine crafted with expertise, passion, and an unwavering dedication to excellence.

So here's to Penfolds, to Max Schubert's brilliant stubbornness, and to the wine that proved Australian Shiraz could stand proudly alongside the world's greatest wines. Whether you're cellaring a bottle of Grange for a milestone celebration or enjoying a glass of Bin 28 with Sunday lunch, you're participating in a legacy that changed wine history. And that, my darlings, is rather special indeed.