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Taittinger Champagne

The Chardonnay-Obsessed Elegance of Reims

Right then, darlings, let's talk about the champagne house that makes my heart positively flutter with its Chardonnay-forward brilliance. Taittinger is the champagne equivalent of a perfectly tailored white dress at a garden party—refined, elegant, and absolutely impossible to ignore. While some houses are busy showing off with their Pinot Noir muscles, Taittinger is over in Reims creating the most gorgeously delicate, floral, and utterly sophisticated bubbles you'll ever have the pleasure of sipping.

This is the house that proves bigger isn't always better, loves. With Chardonnay making up a whopping 40% of their non-vintage blend (compared to the Champagne average of about 30%), Taittinger has carved out a niche as the thinking person's champagne. It's like they're saying, "Yes, we could follow the crowd, but why would we when we can create something this exquisite?" Très intelligent, if you ask me.

And here's the brilliant bit—this is one of the last remaining family-owned champagne houses of significant size. In an industry increasingly dominated by luxury conglomerates, the Taittinger family is still running the show, maintaining their vision of elegant, Chardonnay-focused champagne across generations. That's not just romantic; it's bloody impressive business acumen.

A History Written in Chalk and Chardonnay

The story begins in 1734 when Jacques Fourneaux established a wine merchant business in Reims. But the real magic started in 1932 when Pierre Taittinger, a cavalry officer who'd fallen madly in love with Champagne during World War I (as one does when stationed in such a delicious region), acquired the Château de la Marquetterie and its vineyards. Smart man—most blokes bring home souvenirs; Pierre brought home an entire champagne house.

Pierre's vision was clear from the start: create champagnes of elegance, finesse, and refinement rather than power and weight. He recognized that the Chardonnay grape, particularly from the Côte des Blancs, could produce champagnes of extraordinary delicacy and aging potential. While other houses were focused on creating robust, Pinot-dominant blends, Taittinger was pursuing something more ethereal—champagne as ballet rather than boxing match.

The house expanded significantly under Pierre's sons François and Jean, who acquired the spectacular 13th-century Abbey of Saint-Nicaise and its labyrinth of Gallo-Roman chalk cellars beneath Reims. These aren't just any cellars, loves—they're UNESCO World Heritage-listed spaces where 15 million bottles rest in 4°C cool darkness, aging into something absolutely magnificent. It's like the champagne equivalent of a luxury spa retreat, but for wine.

In 2006, the family faced a crisis when the house was sold to Starwood Capital Group. The champagne world collectively gasped—would Taittinger lose its soul? But in a move that restored my faith in humanity (and family loyalty), Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, with backing from Crédit Agricole, bought the house back in 2006. The family was home, and the Chardonnay-focused vision was secure. Magnifique!

The Chardonnay Philosophy: When Less is Gloriously More

Here's where Taittinger gets properly interesting, darlings. While the average Champagne house uses about 30% Chardonnay in their non-vintage blend, Taittinger cranks it up to 40%. The rest is typically 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier—just enough of the black grapes to provide structure and complexity, but Chardonnay is undeniably the star of the show.

This Chardonnay dominance creates a signature house style that's immediately recognizable: delicate floral aromatics (think white flowers, peach blossom, acacia), bright citrus notes, remarkable finesse, and aging potential that rivals houses using far more Pinot Noir. It's champagne for people who appreciate subtlety and nuance over power and drama—though don't mistake delicacy for weakness. These bubbles have staying power that would make a marathon runner jealous.

The house owns 288 hectares of prime vineyards (absolutely massive for a Champagne house), with significant holdings in the Côte des Blancs Grand Cru villages of Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, and Oger—basically the Chardonnay holy land. These chalk-rich soils produce Chardonnay with piercing minerality, electric acidity, and the kind of elegance that makes you sit up straighter and use your best manners.

Comtes de Champagne: The Blanc de Blancs That Started It All

Now, let's discuss the wine that made Taittinger legendary—Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs. Created in 1952, this was Champagne's first prestige cuvée blanc de blancs (100% Chardonnay), and it absolutely revolutionized the region. Before Comtes, prestige cuvées were dominated by Pinot Noir. Taittinger said, "Non, we're going full Chardonnay," and created something that still sets the standard seven decades later.

Made only in exceptional vintages from five Grand Cru villages in the Côte des Blancs, Comtes de Champagne is aged for at least 10 years before release (compared to the legal minimum of 3 years for vintage champagne). The result? A wine of staggering complexity—toasted brioche, preserved lemon, white truffle, crushed chalk, and a finish that lasts longer than a British summer rain shower.

At around $180-220 per bottle, Comtes isn't an everyday sip (unless you're considerably richer than I am, in which case, fancy adopting a wine-loving Brit?). But for special celebrations, milestone moments, or when you need to absolutely blow someone's mind with champagne, this is the bottle that delivers. It's like bringing a Chanel gown to a party where everyone else is in high-street fashion—elegant, timeless, and utterly unforgettable.

The house also produces Comtes de Champagne Rosé (added in 1966), a blend of Chardonnay with a touch of Pinot Noir vinified as red wine. It's equally stunning but in a more flamboyant way—think of it as Comtes Blanc de Blancs wearing pink silk instead of white linen. Both are gorgeous; it just depends on your mood and the occasion.

The Complete Taittinger Range: From Everyday Elegance to Special Occasion Splendor

Taittinger Brut Réserve NV (~$50-60)

The house's calling card and one of the most reliably delicious non-vintage champagnes you can buy. That 40% Chardonnay shines through with white peach, brioche, and almond notes, balanced by the structure of Pinot Noir and the fruity roundness of Pinot Meunier. This is your go-to for celebrations that don't require a second mortgage—elegant enough for special occasions, affordable enough to justify buying multiple bottles.

Taittinger Prestige Rosé NV (~$70-80)

Made with 30% Chardonnay, 70% Pinot Noir and Meunier (with 15% vinified as red wine for color), this is rosé champagne that doesn't sacrifice elegance for showiness. Wild strawberry, raspberry, and that signature Taittinger floral quality make it perfect for summer afternoons or romantic dinners. It's pink champagne for people who take their bubbles seriously.

Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV (~$90-110)

This is where things get properly interesting. Made entirely from Grand Cru vineyards (50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir) and aged longer than the Brut Réserve, Prélude offers a preview of what extended aging does to Taittinger's Chardonnay-focused style. More developed brioche and honey notes, deeper complexity, but still that characteristic finesse. Consider it the sophisticated older sibling of Brut Réserve.

Taittinger Vintage Brut (~$80-100)

Produced only in exceptional years, typically with 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. Each vintage tells the story of that particular year, with the Chardonnay providing the elegant framework and the Pinot adding depth and structure. Recent excellent vintages include 2014, 2013, and 2012—all aging beautifully if you've got the patience.

Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV (~$60-70)

For those who fancy a slightly sweeter style, Nocturne (with 17.5g/L residual sugar) offers ripe peach, apricot, and honey notes without being cloying. It's designed for desserts and late-night sipping—hence the name. Not my usual cup of tea (I prefer bone-dry champagne), but it's brilliantly executed and converts many to the slightly sweeter champagne camp.

Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs (~$180-220)

The flagship. The legend. 100% Chardonnay from five Grand Cru villages, aged minimum 10 years. This is champagne that demands your full attention and rewards it with extraordinary complexity. If you're celebrating something truly momentous or trying to seriously impress, this is your weapon of choice.

Comtes de Champagne Rosé (~$220-260)

The pink version of perfection. Predominantly Chardonnay with Pinot Noir vinified as red wine for color and structure. As rare as Comtes Blanc de Blancs and equally age-worthy, but with added layers of red fruit complexity. For when regular rosé champagne won't cut it and you need something truly special.

The Cathedral of Champagne: Taittinger's Historic Cellars

The Taittinger cellars beneath Reims are the stuff of vinous legend, darlings. When the family acquired the 13th-century Abbey of Saint-Nicaise, they didn't just get a building—they got access to ancient Gallo-Roman chalk quarries dating back to the 4th century. These aren't your standard wine cellars; they're a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most spectacular aging environments in all of Champagne.

The cellars stretch for nearly 4 kilometers beneath Reims, maintaining a constant 11°C (52°F) with natural humidity that's absolutely perfect for aging champagne. Some sections still feature original Gallo-Roman carvings—you're literally drinking wine aged in spaces that have been used for storage since the Roman Empire. If that doesn't make champagne taste better, I don't know what would.

The abbey connection is particularly significant for the house's identity. The monks of Saint-Nicaise were among the first to cultivate vines in the region, and Taittinger sees itself as continuing that monastic tradition of patience, dedication, and pursuit of excellence. It's a rather lovely bit of historical continuity—from monks making wine for communion to a family house creating some of Champagne's most elegant bottles.

Food Pairing: When Elegance Meets Gastronomy

Taittinger's Chardonnay-forward style makes it absolutely brilliant with food, loves. That delicate structure and bright acidity create partnerships that enhance both the wine and the dish. Here's where these elegant bubbles truly shine:

Raw Oysters with Mignonette

Pairing: Taittinger Brut Réserve NV
Why it works: The classic pairing that proves some clichés exist for bloody good reasons. Taittinger's citrus notes and chalky minerality mirror the oyster's brininess, while the bubbles cleanse your palate between each slurp. The Chardonnay provides just enough weight to match the oyster's texture without overwhelming its delicate ocean flavors. Add a crisp shallot mignonette, and you've got a match made in heaven—or at least in a very good Parisian brasserie.

Lobster Thermidor

Pairing: Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Why it works: When you're serving lobster swimming in a rich, creamy, cognac-spiked sauce, you need a champagne with serious presence. Comtes has the weight and complexity to stand up to the dish's richness while its acidity cuts through the butter and cream like a hot knife. The extended aging brings nutty, brioche notes that complement the lobster's sweetness, and the wine's minerality provides a counterpoint to the sauce's decadence. This is special-occasion eating and drinking at its finest.

White Truffle Risotto

Pairing: Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV
Why it works: White truffles are one of the few ingredients luxurious enough to warrant a champagne in Prélude's price range. The wine's developed character (from extended aging) echoes the earthy, complex notes of the truffle without competing with them. The Chardonnay's inherent elegance matches the risotto's creamy texture, while the bubbles keep each bite feeling fresh despite the dish's richness. Both the wine and the dish are studies in sophisticated restraint—maximum flavor with minimum fuss.

Pan-Seared Scallops with Beurre Blanc

Pairing: Taittinger Vintage Brut
Why it works: Scallops are naturally sweet and delicate, requiring a wine that enhances rather than overwhelms. Taittinger Vintage has enough structure to complement the butter sauce but maintains the finesse needed for the scallops themselves. The wine's citrus and white flower notes add aromatic complexity, while the bubbles provide textural contrast to the scallop's tender flesh and the sauce's silky richness. It's an elegant pairing for an elegant dish.

Wild Strawberry Tart with Crème Fraîche

Pairing: Taittinger Prestige Rosé NV
Why it works: Fruit desserts need wines that can match their sweetness and acidity without being cloying. Taittinger's rosé brings its own strawberry and raspberry notes that amplify the fruit's natural flavors rather than competing with them. The wine's dryness keeps the pairing from becoming too sweet, while the slight tangy edge of crème fraîche finds a perfect partner in the champagne's bright acidity. Plus, pink wine with pink fruit is just visually lovely—we eat with our eyes first, after all.

Why Family Ownership Still Matters

In an era where most major champagne houses are owned by luxury conglomerates (LVMH, Vranken-Pommery, Lanson-BCC), Taittinger's continued family ownership isn't just charming—it's strategically crucial to their identity and quality. When Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger bought back the house in 2006, he wasn't just making a sentimental gesture; he was ensuring the continuation of a specific vision and style.

Family ownership allows Taittinger to think in generations rather than quarterly earnings reports. That Comtes de Champagne sitting in the cellar for 10+ years before release? That's an investment no profit-focused corporate board would likely approve. The decision to maintain such high Chardonnay percentages when Pinot Noir-dominant champagnes often command higher prices? That's family vision overriding pure market logic.

Currently, the house is led by Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger and his children Vitalie and Clovis, representing the third and fourth generations of family stewardship. They've proven themselves innovative while respecting tradition—launching the English sparkling wine project Domaine Evremond, investing in sustainable viticulture, and adapting to climate change while maintaining the house's signature elegance. That's how you honor the past while securing the future, loves.

Visiting Taittinger: A Pilgrimage Worth Making

If you're planning a trip to Champagne (and honestly, why wouldn't you?), Taittinger's cellars in Reims should be at the top of your list. The house offers several tour options, from basic cellar visits to more in-depth experiences that include tastings of multiple cuvées. Booking in advance is essential, especially during summer and harvest season when the region is absolutely heaving with wine-loving tourists.

The cellar tour takes you through those spectacular Gallo-Roman chalk quarries I mentioned earlier—it's like walking through a champagne-scented cathedral, complete with vaulted ceilings and ancient carvings. You'll learn about the house's Chardonnay-focused philosophy, see millions of bottles aging in the cool darkness, and understand why these historic cellars are so crucial to the wine's development.

The tasting room overlooks the beautiful gardens of the former abbey—a properly civilized setting for sipping some of Champagne's most elegant wines. Prices start around €25 for a basic tour with one tasting, going up to €90+ for premium experiences that include vintage and prestige cuvées. Trust me, darlings, tasting Comtes de Champagne in the cellars where it was made is worth every euro.

Pro tip: Reims is easily accessible by TGV from Paris (45 minutes), making it possible to do a day trip if you're short on time. Though honestly, why rush? Book a hotel, visit multiple houses, and enjoy proper champagne tourism. You're not going to Champagne to tick boxes; you're going to understand and appreciate one of wine's most complex and fascinating regions.

Domaine Evremond: Taittinger Conquers Kent

In 2015, Taittinger did something rather brilliant and slightly cheeky—they planted vines in Kent, England, partnering with British agent Hatch Mansfield to create Domaine Evremond. Named after Charles de Saint-Évremond, a 17th-century French exile who championed champagne while living in England, the project is both a business venture and a statement about climate change's impact on viticulture.

The site in Kent's Chilham area has similar chalk soils to Champagne's Côte des Blancs, and the increasingly warm English climate now allows Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to ripen reliably. Taittinger planted 69 hectares with the same grape varieties and clones used in Champagne, applying their traditional methods to English terroir. The first commercial release came in 2023—and yes, it's quite good. Not Comtes de Champagne good (give it a few more decades), but definitely a serious English sparkling wine that shows what happens when Champagne expertise meets English determination.

The project represents Taittinger's forward-thinking approach—recognizing that climate change is shifting where quality sparkling wine can be produced and getting in early in a region with serious potential. It's also rather symbolic: the French champagne house that defined blanc de blancs elegance is now making wine in England, showing that wine regions aren't static and innovation requires adapting to changing conditions. C'est formidable!

The Verdict: Elegance Never Goes Out of Style

Taittinger represents something increasingly rare in modern champagne—a large, internationally distributed house that's maintained its family ownership, distinctive style, and commitment to Chardonnay-focused elegance across nearly a century. In a world of champagnes trying to out-power and out-luxury each other, Taittinger remains committed to finesse, restraint, and aging potential.

Whether you're opening a bottle of Brut Réserve for a casual celebration or saving Comtes de Champagne for life's most significant moments, you're drinking champagne that reflects a clear vision and generations of expertise. That 40% Chardonnay isn't just a recipe—it's a philosophy about what champagne can be when elegance and delicacy are valued as highly as power and intensity.

For wine lovers who appreciate subtlety, complexity, and the kind of champagne that rewards contemplation as much as celebration, Taittinger offers a compelling alternative to the Pinot Noir-dominant powerhouses. And at a time when family-owned champagne houses are becoming endangered species, supporting Taittinger means supporting a model that values long-term vision over short-term profits.

So here's to Taittinger—to ancient cellars and modern vision, to Chardonnay's elegant brilliance, to families who buy back their heritage and secure their future. May they continue making champagne that proves bigger isn't always better, and sometimes the most powerful statement is made with the most delicate touch.

Right then, darlings—off you pop to find some Taittinger! Santé!

Your cheeky wine insider,
Sophie

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